Monday, 19 November 2012

Fashion clock back into Spring/Summer 2013

Louis Vuitton He had been inspired by the work of artist Daniel Buren - with whom he collaborated on the set too. "His work is very graphic with the use of grids and so I took inspiration from his sculptures and installations," said Jacobs backstage after the show. And the escalators were a case in point. "They're a moving pattern, a rhythm, it's a mathematical equation," he said. "I just liked graphic patterns, the colour with light.


Alexander McQueen perfect collection - taking honey in all its forms and working it up into the most beautiful clothes. Honeycomb mesh made for sharply-executed jackets and pencil skirts, a circular mesh disc for a new take on a beekeeper's hat up top; it then morphed into being honeycomb jacquard for more precise tailoring with cropped trousers beneath and scythe-like shoes with glistening heels that seemed to melt into existence. 




Valantino It was all-at-once girlie, demure and delicate - see the sheer sheer chiffon and broderie anglaise - but it had a refined darker edge with transparent bags and macs edged in studs. Jumpsuits leaned towards the Edwardian-Victorian train of thought with their collars and lace and ruffled bib fronts and tea dresses in pretty prints with little puffed sleeves continued down the pretty route. Snakeskin toughened up later looks (a tactic used by Erdem in London too), and worked well with the sweetness of  nude pink.



Chanel "It was fantastic, optimistic and elegant, and indeed, Lagerfeld wasn't going to let any of the fashion fanfare we've seen elsewhere during Paris Fashion Week steal the limelight from Chanel. But rather than bells and whistles (OK, yes there were wind turbines), this was a confident outing and possibly one of the simplest (in Chanel terms), shows we've seen - which in fact speaks volumes.




John Galliano It was about my ongoing fascination with modernity. I studied architecture. There are origins in Asia and Japan - which led onto the kimono and the obi belts. It's about volume really," said Gaytten after the show. "But taking away the extraneous details, less fuss, but still feminine and romantic, I hope," he said, ever so slightly nervously - which is to be expected really. It's still early days and while the house of Christian Dior has set sail with Raf Simons, the John Galliano label doesn't have the heritage behind it.




Jean Paul Gaultier There was androgynous tailoring for Lennox and there were star bodysuits for Bowie and slick black dresses for Sade and of course corsetry - lots of corsetry - for Madonna. There was also a special guest appearance from Amanda Lear - in a pink sequin body suit.In fact, this was less a fashion show and more a concert - fashion press up and out of their seats to sing and dance along to favourite sartorial soundtracks.




Dior There were hip-accentuated jackets that came smattered in floral motifs and there were multi-coloured shoes with the pointiest of toes and curved pin-thin heels to match. "It was beautiful, strange and unusual - so precise but so varied. I loved the strong romance - it was so bold with the make-up - and it followed on from the couture collection, you could see how it had evolved, Just as we had seen those ball skirts in July, we saw them again here, teamed with black svelte tops; and where trousers had featured beneath those mini ballgown shapes before, this time they were shorts.

Versace There were mesh skirts and colourful, playful knits - this was a fun, fun, fun collection and, aside from the sexy bondage chain shoes, was far less aggressive than last season. Something that Versace had confessed to of her mainline collection earlier that evening too.With the party going on around us the clothes might have seemed a little superfluous - it can be a tricky to concentrate in said surreal situations - they were anything but and did deserve a look. Next summer is going to be fun. 
 
GUCCI is a power house. And it knows how to pack a punch. This afternoon, Frida Giannini kicked off the Milan Fashion Week proceedings with a colour bombshell as bright shocking pink - a slick trouser suit, followed by a skirt variation with fluted sleeves - took to the catwalk to show that Milan, too, is in a sweet mood. 
 Prada can certain things become cult, covetable and cool - Miuccia has that way of taking something you think you don't like, that might even be ugly, putting her stamp on it and off you go: sold.
Those pure shapes came via boxy silk jackets - they began in black with a single white flower that looked like it had been spray-painted or stencilled on - and came worn with stiff pleated skirts. Jackets then morphed into wraps to slide at sharp angles off the shoulder and so set the direction for the Japanese influences that could be seen in the yet more angular-layered Judo jackets and coats and then dresses. These were Geisha girls who had been exposed to some serious flower power.

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